Thursday, Sept. 2

Yesterday's distance covered: 7 miles.

Last night's campsite: "The Wonderland Hilton" at Indian Bar (6,100 feet) on the mountain's eastside.

Yesterday's weather: Sunny in the morning, mostly cloudy by afternoon.

Today's wake-up weather: Clear skies; 32 degrees.

Happenings: Yesterday was a day of slow, long climbs and great scenery along the Cowlitz Divide. Most people hike the Wonderland Trail clockwise. But I'm traveling counter-clockwise, primarily because it was easier reserving my preferred campsites traveling in this direction. This allows me to travel north on this up-and-down eastside route and keep the mountain in front of me. Lots of snow up here. I met Tim along the route, and we walked and skidded through about a mile of snow-covered trail before reaching the stone-and-timber trail shelter, dubbed "The Wonderland Hilton" at Indian Bar. It features eight bunk-style "cots" made up of wooden planks. For a Wonderland hiker, it's the Ritz. Good star-gazing last night.

Nice views: All along Upper Cowlitz Divide; Rainier is on one side, long-range views of the Tatoosh Range, Goat Rocks and Mount Adams are on the other.

Thoughts: I'm grateful to be here on a sunny day. Not everyone is so lucky.

Looking ahead: Panhandle Gap awaits.

Last night's dinner: Vegetable Risotto, with turkey by Backpacker's Pantry ($7). Very good: I'll buy this one again.

Distance still to travel: 73 miles.

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