Tuesday, August 31

Yesterday's distance covered: 2.5 miles.

Last night's campsite: National Park Inn at Longmire.

Yesterday's weather: Morning drizzle; periods of afternoon rain with lightning; partial evening clearing with patches of blue sky and a brief appearance by the mountain.

Today's wake-up weather: Light drizzle, thick clouds and steamy fog in the trees, with a small window of blue sky to the east; 43 degrees.

Happenings: Trudging through the fog up to Reflection Lake (4,850 feet), I crossed the park's paved road and questioned my commitment and my logic. My ambition is to see and feel the Wonderland Trail, not just do it. I watch steam rise off Reflection Lake as raindrops puncture its surface. I stand, ponder and soon walk to the road and stick out my thumb. Within 15 minutes, a kind-hearted contractor from Spokane offers me a ride, allowing me to toss my dripping pack and soggy body into his Mustang. He takes me back to Longmire, where I plan to sit out the rain and try to dry my gear. I spot another heavily burdened hiker and compare trail notes. Eventually this 55-year-old retired postal worker, Tim Hillbrick of Tacoma, invites me to use the spare bed in the room he has booked at Longmire's National Park Inn. At first I decline, but the persistence of the rain and Tim's cheerful demeanor finally persuade me to accept. This is Tim's fourth trip around the Wonderland Trail and he promises he will walk the route at least once every year for the rest of his life. He calls the mountain "my girlfriend." He says co-workers used to call him the Grouch. Hiking the Wonderland Trail has changed that. "I don't know what the word is," Hillbrick says, "but since I've started hiking this trail, things don't bother me the way they used to. I just let things go now."

Thoughts: Traveling at trail speed is a good pace of life. It's easier to enjoy the sites and the people you meet along the way.

Nice view: Narada Falls, even in a drizzle.

Looking ahead: The weather forecast hints at better days ahead. Snow fell yesterday at Paradise (just above 5,000 feet). One ranger heard reports of 25 mph winds at Sunrise and an inch of accumulation. Panhandle Gap (6,800 feet) between Indian Bar and Summerland on Mount Rainier's east side may now present a treacherous crossing. When I started this trip, no ice axe was required. I should be there Tuesday.

Last night's meal: Chicken parmesan with fettuccine ($14) at the National Park Inn. I passed on the $4.50 blackberry pie.

Distance still to travel: 88 miles (if I catch a ride back to Reflection Lake).

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