Wednesday, Sept. 8

Yesterday's distance traveled: 10 miles.

Last night's campsite: Golden Lakes Trail Camp (elevation 5,000 feet).

Yesterday's weather: Perfect (warm, sunny, cloudless). One of those great-to-be-alive days.

Today's wake up conditions: Clear and promising; 39 degrees.

Happenings: Yesterday was a typical day on the Wonderland Trail. Last night I camped at an elevation only 70 feet higher than where I spent the previous night. But to get there, I had to descend more than 2,300 feet to the Mowich River, then climb 2,400 feet. Level trail sections are rare on this walk across Mount Rainier's many ridge lines.

Almost the entire distance I traveled yesterday was beneath a thick canopy of old growth trees. The trees are gorgeous, but only once all day did I reach a spot where I could enjoy a clear, breakout view of the mountain. That occurred on a ridge line just north of Golden Lakes, where blueberry bushes along the trail were operating at peak production. My fingers acquired a blue stain due to my frequent berry picking.

I passed several groups and soloists heading north yesterday, including some locals, a duo from Portland and Clinton and a 56-year-old fellow from Washington, D.C. He is three states shy of covering the entire Appalachian Trail and he told me he wanted to take on the Wonderland Trail and "experience a real mountain."

The mountain was lovely in yesterday's twilight, shifting from gold to pink to icy blue-gray as the sun faded. A nice end to a nice day.

Trail conditions: Two weeks ago I was told the area I traveled through yesterday was littered with dead fall (fallen trees). However, it was completely cleared as I passed through, with gaps cut through massive logs in order to keep the trail open. In addition, every water crossing has had a foot bridge in place. Even where bridges have been damaged, a temporary crossing has been installed. I have yet to ford a creek. Other than sporadic dead fall on Cowlitz Divide and some thick brush in Stevens Canyon and elsewhere, the trail is in great shape. Considering the harshness of this past winter, that's some accomplishment.

Last night's dinner: Sierra Chicken (chicken in tomato sauce with pasta) by Alpine Aire ($6.75). Nothing fancy but an always tasty favorite.

Distance still to travel: 25 miles.

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