Gold rush: hikes to see the changing larches

Finding gold isn't easy but hikers can strike it rich this month, as alpine larch trees transition from green to gold, lighting up the mountains like a torchlight parade.

Two places to find larches are in the Alpine Lakes region's Teanaway district, and the North Cascades near Washington Pass. In October temperatures can drop quickly, so be prepared for wintry conditions even on a sunny day.

Teanaway hikes

In the Teanaway, look for larches on the Longs Pass trail or the County Line trail above Lake Ann. Both hikes start from the trailhead at the end of Forest Service Road 9737 (North Fork Teanaway Road).

From the trailhead climb a quarter of a mile on an old road to the trail junction for Esmeralda Basin (Trail 1394) and Ingalls Way (Trail 1390). For Lake Ann, hike the Esmeralda Basin trail to the County Line Trail (about 1.5 miles from the trailhead). Several streams are crossed; some may require a rock-hop.

On a mid-September hike, where the Esmeralda Basin trail skirted stands of pines, shaggy meadows were resplendent with yellowing grasses and false hellebore. At the junction with the County Line Trail (Trail 1226) the sign is weathered and easy to miss. Turn onto the County Line Trail, part of an old trail system that once marked the border between Kittitas and Chelan counties.

Tread grows faint though the terrain is open and forgiving (when in doubt head uphill). The trail is steep where it negotiates rocky outcroppings and boggy meadows, some graced with white snags. In September flowers were scant though blueberry shrubs were crimson and the large, tapering leaves of hellebore were threaded with gold.

The trail climbs steeply to a saddle (6,487 feet) overlooking Lake Ann, set in a rocky basin surrounded by alpine larches. This makes a scenic turnaround with views of Fortune Peak, South Ingalls and beyond.

Hikers have options: A steep path descends to the lake (6,158 feet) for further exploration. Strong hikers with route-finding skills can also climb a rough path east (right) along the ridge to Fortune Peak, a nontechnical but steep scramble.

We would have lingered but a sudden squall prompted us to retreat. As we retraced our steps we were enthralled to hear a coyote howl as if mourning our departure. Despite the rain we stopped to admire the scenery. Dark skies enhanced the copper-hued bracken and beads of moisture clung to blades of grass like diamonds caught in a comb.

Study the map for more options: From the junction at the Ingalls Way/Esmeralda Basin trails turn right onto the Ingalls Way Trail for Longs Pass. The trail climbs through pungent pine forest interspersed with meadows and fading flowers. In about two miles turn right at the Longs Pass junction (look for golden larches as you continue to the pass). Discovering that first golden larch is as exciting as finding the first flower of spring.

Strong hikers can also hike to Lake Ingalls, a longer hike with more opportunities for golden larches, especially in Headlight Basin below the lake. At Lake Ingalls you may spot mountain goats; the view of Mount Stuart from the lake is outstanding.

The details

Getting there: From Interstate 90 at Cle Elum take Exit 85; go north on Highway 970 to Teanaway Road; turn left and continue 13 miles to the end of paved road. Turn right onto Forest Road 9737, continue 10 miles to road end and trailhead, elevation 4,200 feet. Allow about 2.5 hours drive time one-way. A Northwest Forest Pass is required.

Trail data: The saddle above Lake Ann is 8.5 miles round trip with a 2,560-foot gain. Longs Pass is five miles round-trip with a 2,100-foot gain. Ingalls Lake is nine miles round trip with about a 2,500-foot gain. Map: Green Trails No. 209, Mount Stuart. No dogs allowed on the Ingalls Way Trail or other trails in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness; dogs allowed on the Esmeralda Basin trail (outside the wilderness area).

More information: Cle Elum Ranger District (509-852-1100) or www.fs.fed.us/r6/wenatchee/.

Blue Lake

(North Cascades)

Blue Lake is a long drive but the drive from Marblemount is so spectacular you won't mind. The hike to Blue Lake is short and easy, and the lake a treat. October is the best month for larches though short days and weather become a factor. Be prepared for wintry conditions and dress accordingly.

It'd been years since we'd been to Blue Lake so we weren't surprised to find some changes. Today the trailhead is well signed and provides a privy.

If you encounter climbers on the trail, don't worry — you are not on the wrong trail! The trail is also the beginning of a climbing route to Liberty Bell and Early Winters Spires. Other improvements include boardwalks to protect marshy areas, and the trail has been rerouted around an avalanche path. In 1.5 miles you'll reach a junction near the remains of an old cabin. Here climbers tackle a steep scramble path (left) — hikers continue (right) toward Blue Lake.

At the lake, most of the shoreline surrounding the lake is closed for restoration but the views are not off-limits. See how green the lake is? It's a striking contrast when surrounding larches are golden.We crossed the outlet of the lake and settled near where the larches grow (most larches were still green on our visit).

A path extends beyond the lake to a tarn with a nearby view of Cutthroat Peak and Whistler Mountain (bring the map to identify the peaks). We hiked back to a sunny knoll overlooking Blue Lake with views of Liberty Bell, Early Winters Spires and their reflections cast in the placid water of the lake.

When we heard the footsteps of someone kicking rocks loose we turned to look. Instead of a clumsy hiker, five mountain goats materialized from the shadows, coming close to where we sat as they began munching on vegetation. They were not upset by our presence so we lingered.

Encountering mountain goats more than made up for the lack of golden larches.

The details

Getting there: From Interstate 5 in Skagit County, take Exit 230 (Highway 20) and go east over the North Cascades Highway. From Rainy Pass continue three more miles to the trailhead on the right, between mileposts 161 and 162 at elevation 5,200 feet. Allow about 3 ½ hours drive time.

Trail data: The hike is 4.5 miles round trip with a 1,053-foot gain. Map: Green Trails No. 50, Washington Pass.

More information: See the website for Okanogan/Wenatchee National Forest: www.fs.fed.us/r6/oka.

Karen Sykes is a Seattle-based freelance writer and a longtime leader of hikes with The Mountaineers.