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The orchid girls are still alive.
That's the good news. We learned it several weeks ago when my
husband and I returned to the Thailand-Burma border to volunteer at
Dr. Cynthia Maung's refugee clinic.
There is also sad news: Another child we knew has been killed
by the war. I hate to report bad news, so first the good.
Colors seemed brighter after we found out, for sure, that Shu
Wah and Oh Mu were alive and well and had been seen fishing for
minnows with small baskets in the stream that flows through Chogali
village.
It had been hard to get news from Chogali, Burma, since the
Burmese military invaded last year. Villagers weren't allowed to
come and go. A few did, but it was dangerous and costly.
So we were shocked when a mom from Chogali arrived at Dr.
Cynthia's clinic at Mae Sot, Thailand, in the hottest part of
Sunday, in a swirl of dust and crying children. Her baby was sick
and she was scared. Chogali, a village of 60 bamboo huts, had been
without medical care since soldiers destroyed Dr. Cynthia's jungle
field clinic there last year. Eleven people had died from malaria
and dysentery. Six were children.
Dr. Cynthia jumped up as soon as she spotted the flash of
magenta so distinctive of hill-tribe clothing. We had been chatting
and slurping sticky instant coffee out of chipped white cups while
leaning against a year's worth of patient records stacked up to Dr.
Cynthia's armpits. Last year, the stack barely reached her hips. The
patient load had tripled.
Malaria seemed worse, resistant to even the most expensive
antibiotics, more malicious to red blood cells, complicated by
anemia and malnutrition. Many patients needed transfusions. The
medics screened each other, matched blood type, and donated on the
spot.
The mother from Chogali was a beautiful poised woman who
maintained her grace even while hand-pumping breast milk into a
greasy cellophane bag. Her baby had stopped sucking during the
journey. The infant wore a bullet casing filled with traditional
medicine on a string around his neck so ghosts could not capture his
soul. He had been born the day before Chogali fell. He had huge dark
eyes and skin smooth as ripe fruit.
The baby, like his mother, was calm and beautiful. This was a
bad sign. He was in shock. The baby needed blood. I matched.
As her baby recovered over the next week, Hser Lah told me what
had become of Chogali and the orchid girls. Oh Mu has grown a little
taller. Shu Wah has not. Sometimes they are sick, sometimes healthy.
There is no longer a school in the village, so the two girls wander
around, trying to copycat grownups who are doing chores. The women
spend a lot more time carrying water from the stream because
soldiers dismantled the PVC pipes Dr. Cynthia had installed. The men
dig. Military trucks collapsed the irrigation ditches in their chili
and rice fields.
But overall, Chogali was lucky. The generals left it in control
of a faction that is less cruel, less likely to rape or use slave
labor.
Before Hser Lah and her baby returned to Chogali, Dr. Cynthia
loaded them up with medicine for the village. We sent back some pink
and purple jackets for Shu Wah and Oh Mu, and I tucked their
snapshot in one of the pockets. I wasn't sure what to write on the
back, because they can't read and have never left the jungle. I
ended up sketching the Space Needle, mountains, water, smiling
faces. Pretty corny. Like installing a titanium map on Voyager and
hoping Martians will show up on your doorstep next millennium. But
who knows? You can never tell what will happen in life. We can wish.
Aid made a big difference
I wish you could have seen that baby get better. I wish you
could have seen the medics hoisting 82 huge cardboard crates of
medicine up the stairs, medicine from all of you - here in Seattle.
I wish you could have seen the ruffled leaf roofs of the Huay
Kaloke refugee camp, rebuilt after last year's torching. And the
ladies in the new bamboo sewing hut, stitching brassieres and
children's clothes on treadle sewing machines purchased with money
you donated.
I wish you could have seen the orphans from Chogali and the
other villages, spinning tops and playing soccer by their big tree
house near the river. They'd gained weight since last year. Dr.
Cynthia bought 40 extra sacks of rice for them, from you.
Thank you for your phenomenal response after "A Land of War, A
Journey of the Heart" was published last fall. More than 50 phone
calls, more than 100 letters, more than 450 people donating more
than $27,000 to Dr. Cynthia's clinic and the refugees along the
border.
People gave children's clothes, medical supplies, antibiotics,
two microscopes. Several doctors, nurses and just-plain people
wanted to volunteer on the border. Others called wanting to adopt,
wanting to do fund-raisers, wanting to help, wanting to share their
own lives. School children wrote letters to Dr. Cynthia. One family
donated money they would have spent on Christmas presents.
Dr. Cynthia read all your letters, several times, and asked me
to thank you - not only for your donations, but for your caring.
"When we get all this, we really think we got the heart and so
we feel like we win," she said. "We feel like we can continue our
struggle. And we want them - all of you - to be involved, to support
with the heart. Not only here, wherever in the world."
We did an art project with the children in the Huay Kaloke
refugee camp, using magic markers and fabric squares to make a
quilt. Some of the children drew pictures of peace: duck ponds and
golden fields ready for harvest. Others sketched firing squads,
guns, blood. The distant mountains were blue; the nearer hills were
green. All the children spent a long time coloring the sky.
"During the day, my heart is like a melon," one of the young
artists said. "In the evening, it's like an orange. And at night,
like a bean."
Refugee camp shelled, torched
Just across the river, on the slope of a looming green hill,
there were five artillery launchers aimed at the camp. For months,
Burmese soldiers had threatened to attack. People slept with their
few belongings in bundles, ready to flee.
So here, reluctantly, is the bad news: Huay Kaloke refugee camp
was shelled and torched last week. The ruffled leaf roofs, the
children's art quilt, all that is gone. Charred stumps punctuate the
ashen landscape. Eight thousand people lost their homes, hundreds of
people were burned, 50 seriously wounded, four people were killed -
including one of the orphans under Dr. Cynthia's care.
I once asked Dr. Cynthia if she ever felt like giving up when
things got bad. "You can look back over your shoulder, and then they
win," she said. "Or you can look forward, and you win."
She has already sent teams of medics and supplies to the camp.
I have not yet heard which child was killed and I don't know
how he or she died. I am afraid to know.
Instead, I like to think of the night we spent with the orphans
in the treehouse. How the boys sang "Ob-la-dee, Ob-la-da, Life goes
on . . . " as they washed their tin plates with water from the
cistern and then got ready for bed. How the girls taught me an odd
assortment of Karen words (moon, star, flower, rat) while we brushed
our teeth in the cool darkness with a brand new tube of mint
toothpaste.
The girls and I shared a mosquito net with their grimy stuffed
bear. Before blowing out the candle, they read me their lessons and
drew pictures on my Newton. Then they fell asleep and smelled like
shampoo.
Sometime after midnight, I woke up and climbed down the ladder
to use the latrine. The morning fog had not yet set down.
The sky was astoundingly clear and crowded. I felt thankful for
the abundance of stars and the peace of the night. It was quiet
enough to hear the pulse of a million crickets and the sound of 20
children breathing.
The children were breathing. I long to hear that sound again.
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